What to Plant in February: Complete Guide by Zone (2026)

February is when the gardening year truly accelerates. Seed catalogs are arriving, grow lights are humming, and the first critical outdoor plantings are possible across a wide range of climates. For gardeners in warm zones, February means full cool-season production plus the start of warm-season crops. For northern gardeners, it’s the most important seed-starting month of the year.

This guide tells you exactly what to plant in February, organized by USDA Hardiness Zone.

February Planting by USDA Hardiness Zone

Zones 3–4 (Extreme Northern US, Canada)

Average temps: -15°F to 10°F nights / 20–35°F days

February remains firmly winter in Zones 3–4. Last frost dates are typically early May through mid-May. But February is when the indoor seed-starting calendar gets serious.

Start Indoors in February (Zones 3–4):

Early February:

• Onions and leeks — If you didn’t start in January, early February is still acceptable (though yields will be slightly smaller)
• Celery and celeriac — Start by February 15 at the latest for Zone 3; February 1 for Zone 4

Mid-to-Late February:

• Peppers — Start 8–10 weeks before last frost. In Zone 3–4, last frost is mid-May, so February 15–March 1 is appropriate
• Eggplant — Same timing as peppers; slow starter, benefits from early start
• Artichokes — Need 60–90 days to reach transplant size; start late February

Ongoing:

• Microgreens — Sunflower, pea, radish, kale; harvest every 2 weeks
• Sprouts — Lentils, mung beans, broccoli seeds in mason jars

Zones 5–6 (Midwest, Mid-Atlantic, Northern California Inland)

Average temps: -10°F to 30°F nights / 30–50°F days

Last frost is typically April 15–May 15. February is the seed-starting month.

Start Indoors in February (Zones 5–6):

Early February (Feb 1–14):

• Onions (if not already started in January)
• Leeks (if not already started)
• Celery and celeriac
• Geraniums (Pelargonium) — Need 12–16 weeks to bloom-size transplant; start now
• Begonias (tuberous) — Slow to bloom; start February for summer flowers
• Lobelia — Slow; start in early February

Mid-to-Late February (Feb 15–28):

• Peppers — Start 10 weeks before last frost (Zone 5: April 30 → start Feb 18; Zone 6: April 15 → start Feb 4)
• Eggplant — Same timing as peppers
• Artichokes — Start to vernalize; give 4–6 weeks of temperatures below 50°F before transplanting to trigger head development
• Snapdragons — Start now; harden and transplant in April
• Dusty miller, stock, dianthus — Cool-season annuals; start for spring transplants

Outdoors under row cover or cold frame:

• Spinach (Zone 6 only, sheltered spots) — Sow thickly under heavy row cover
• Mâche — Already established plants (from fall planting) resume growth

Zones 7–8 (Upper South, Pacific Northwest, Northern California Coast)

Average temps: 15°F to 45°F nights / 40–60°F days

February marks an important transition in Zone 7–8. Outdoor planting begins in earnest, and the seed-starting calendar is in full swing.

Start Indoors (Zone 7–8):

Early February:

• Onions (if not started; last chance for large bulbs)
• Peppers — Start by February 1 (10 weeks before April 15 last frost in Zone 7)
• Eggplant — February 1–15
• Tomatoes — Start late February (8 weeks before April 15 frost date in Zone 7)

Mid-to-Late February:

• Tomatoes — February 15–28 for Zone 7 (transplant April 15–May 1)
• Basil — Start 6–8 weeks before transplant date; not frost-hardy
• Annual herbs (lemon balm, summer savory, marjoram)
• Impatiens, petunias — Long-season annuals; start now for May transplants

Direct Sow Outdoors (Zone 7–8):

Early February (Zone 8 only):

• Spinach — Sow in a sheltered bed or under row cover
• Peas — Plant sugar snap and shelling peas; Zone 8 can direct sow in early February
• Cilantro — Sow thickly; cool weather prevents bolting
• Lettuce — Mix of varieties; harvest at baby stage or full heads
• Arugula — Fast-growing; sow every 2 weeks
• Radishes — Ready in 25–30 days

Mid-to-Late February (Zone 7–8):

• Beets — Direct sow in prepared beds
• Carrots — Sow in loose, deep soil
• Chard — Hardy; transplant or direct sow
• Asian greens (bok choy, mizuna, tatsoi)
• Potatoes (Zone 8 only, late February) — Plant seed potatoes when soil is workable and temps are 40°F+

Transplant Outdoors (Zone 7–8):

• Kale and collards — Hardy transplants can go out
• Onion transplants (late February, Zone 8) — From fall-started transplants or purchased sets
• Cabbage (late February, Zone 7–8) — Hardy to 15°F when established

Zones 9–10 (Gulf Coast, Southern California, Southern Arizona, South Texas)

Average temps: 40°F to 65°F nights / 60–80°F days

February is one of the busiest gardening months in Zone 9–10. Cool-season crops are peaking, warm-season crops are starting, and the garden is in full production.

Direct Sow Outdoors (Zone 9–10):

Cool-Season Crops (still excellent):

• Lettuce — Sow every 2–3 weeks for continuous harvest until temps climb
• Spinach — Getting late in the season; sow immediately
• Peas (sugar snap, snow, shelling) — Peak planting season in Zone 9; early February in Zone 10 before heat arrives
• Arugula — Fast; harvest in 30 days
• Asian greens — Excellent in February temperatures
• Carrots — Sow for April–May harvest; cool soil = sweet roots
• Beets — Excellent cool-season performance
• Radishes — Fast succession planting
• Cilantro — Last good months before bolting
• Dill — Direct sow outdoors
• Fava beans — Last chance to plant in Zone 10; Zone 9 still has good window

Beginning Warm-Season Crops:

• Tomatoes (late February, Zone 10) — Direct sow or transplant before heat intensifies
• Peppers — Transplant established starts (started indoors in November–December)
• Cucumbers (Zone 10 only, late February) — Direct sow for spring production
• Summer squash (Zone 10 only, late February) — Plant zucchini, yellow squash
• Green beans (Zone 10 only) — Bush beans; direct sow in warm soil

Transplant Outdoors (Zone 9–10):

• Broccoli — Last call for cool-season production; transplant early February
• Cauliflower — Transplant in early February; heads in April
• Tomato transplants (Zone 9, late February) — Set out if plants are hardened off and nights are above 40°F consistently
• Pepper transplants (Zone 10, early February) — Set out established transplants

Herbs:

• Basil (Zone 10, February) — Warm enough to transplant in sunny spots
• Parsley, dill, cilantro — Direct sow or transplant all zones
• Chives, garlic chives — Divide and transplant established clumps

Zone 11 (Hawaii, South Florida, Puerto Rico)

Average temps: 65°F+ nights / 78–88°F days

Zone 11 is transitioning from cool-season to warm-season production. February remains excellent for a wide range of crops.

What to plant in February (Zone 11):

• Tomatoes and peppers — Primary warm-season crops; in full production or newly planted
• Eggplant — Excellent performance in February
• Squash — Direct sow; both summer and winter types
• Cucumbers — Plant for spring production
• Sweet potatoes — Excellent in Zone 11 conditions; plant slips
• Beans — Bush and pole beans; direct sow
• Tropical greens (Malabar spinach, New Zealand spinach) — Thrive in February
• Herbs (basil, lemongrass, ginger, turmeric) — Active growing

Indoor Seed Starting in February: The Core Guide

February is the critical seed-starting month for most US gardeners. Here’s what you need to know to succeed.

Tomato Seed Starting (Most Important February Task)

When: Zone 5: Feb 21–28 (8 weeks before May 15 frost); Zone 6: Feb 14–21 (8 weeks before April 30 frost); Zone 7: Feb 14–21; Zone 8: Feb 1–14

How:

1. Fill 4-inch pots or 72-cell trays with seed-starting mix
2. Pre-moisten mix until evenly damp
3. Sow 2 seeds per cell, ¼ inch deep
4. Cover with plastic wrap or humidity dome
5. Place on heat mat at 75–80°F
6. Germination in 5–10 days
7. Remove dome; place under grow lights immediately
8. Thin to one plant per cell at first true leaf stage
9. At 3–4 inches tall, pot up to 4-inch pots

February tomato varieties worth starting:

• Early Girl (57 days) — classic early producer
• Sungold (57 days) — sweet cherry, nearly foolproof
• Cherokee Purple (80 days) — heirloom, exceptional flavor
• Black Krim (69 days) — dark, rich flavor
• San Marzano (78 days) — paste tomato, classic canning variety

Pepper Seed Starting

Peppers need 10–14 weeks to reach transplant size. February 1 is the target start date for Zone 5–7.

Germination: Peppers are slower than tomatoes. They need soil at 80–85°F for reliable germination (7–21 days). A heat mat is essential.

Patience: Pepper seedlings grow slowly for the first 4–6 weeks. Don’t worry — they’ll take off with warmer temperatures.

February pepper varieties worth starting:

• California Wonder bell pepper (75 days) — classic
• Shishito (60 days) — mild, excellent roasted
• Jimmy Nardello sweet frying pepper (80 days)
• Jalapeño M (75 days) — reliable heat
• Cayenne Long Slim (70 days) — excellent for drying

Managing February Seedlings

Watering: Keep soil evenly moist, never soggy. Water when the top ¼ inch of soil feels dry. Use room-temperature water — cold water slows growth and can cause disease.

Light: 14–16 hours under grow lights. Rotate trays every 2–3 days to ensure even light exposure. Keep lights close — 2–4 inches above tips.

Temperature: Seedlings grow best at 65–70°F during the day. Cooler nights (55–60°F) are acceptable and actually encourage stockier growth.

Fertilizing: Begin liquid fertilization with a diluted balanced fertilizer (half strength) when seedlings have their first true leaves — usually 2–3 weeks after germination.

Damping off prevention: This fungal disease kills seedlings at soil level. Prevent by: (1) not overwatering, (2) using sterile seed-starting mix, (3) ensuring good airflow around plants, (4) watering from the bottom rather than overhead when possible.

February Outdoor Tasks (All Zones)

Apply Dormant Oil to Fruit Trees

February is the ideal window for dormant oil application in most fruit-growing areas. Dormant oil smothers overwintering pest eggs (aphids, mites, scale) and reduces populations by 70–80%.

Apply on a dry day when temperatures are above 40°F and no frost is expected for 24 hours. Cover the entire tree — trunk, branches, and twigs.

Prune Fruit Trees and Berry Canes

• Apple and pear: Prune before bud swell (late February to early March in most zones)
• Peach and nectarine: Prune more aggressively than other fruit trees; remove about one-third of last year’s growth
• Raspberries: Remove all canes that produced fruit last year (they won’t produce again); thin remaining canes to 6 per plant
• Blueberries: Remove weak, twiggy growth; open up the center for airflow

Amend Garden Beds

Spread 2–4 inches of compost over empty garden beds. If you didn’t lime or adjust pH last fall, do it now — early spring applications have time to work before planting.

Check on Stored Bulbs and Tubers

If you stored dahlia tubers, canna rhizomes, or other tender bulbs over winter, check them in February. Remove any rotted sections. Sprinkle lightly with water if they’re shriveling. Begin sprouting dahlias in damp peat in late February.

February Planting Mistakes to Avoid

Starting tomatoes too early. An 8-week-old tomato seedling is the ideal transplant size. A 12-week-old seedling grown indoors becomes root-bound, stressed, and actually underperforms versus a properly timed younger plant. Stick to the 8-week rule.

Forgetting cold stratification. Seeds of perennial native plants, many trees, and some vegetables need cold, moist conditions to break dormancy. If you want to direct sow these outdoors in spring, they need 4–12 weeks of cold treatment in the refrigerator now.

Planting peas too late. In Zones 5–7, peas planted in late February or early March perform far better than late March or April plantings. Peas are a cool-season crop that needs soil temperature 40–50°F — delay costs yield significantly.

Not labeling seedlings. Every seedling tray must be labeled immediately. Tomato and pepper seedlings look nearly identical at the cotyledon stage. By week 3, you cannot distinguish a San Marzano from a Sungold without labels.

Using regular potting mix for seed starting. Regular potting mix is too coarse for tiny seeds and may contain fertilizer levels that burn seedlings. Use dedicated seed-starting mix.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: When should I start tomato seeds indoors?

A: Count back 6–8 weeks from your last expected frost date. If your last frost is May 15 (Zone 5), start tomatoes February 21–March 1. If your last frost is April 15 (Zone 7), start tomatoes February 15–21.

Q: Can I plant anything outdoors in February in Zone 6?

A: Very limited options. Under row cover or cold frame: spinach and mâche are possible in late February in Zone 6. Otherwise, it’s an indoor month.

Q: Do I need a heat mat for starting seeds?

A: For peppers and eggplant, a heat mat is nearly essential — they germinate poorly at room temperature. For tomatoes, a heat mat speeds germination from 10 days to 5–7 days. Onions and lettuce germinate well at room temperature without a mat.

Q: My seedlings are getting very leggy — what should I do?

A: Insufficient light is the cause. Move grow lights closer (2–3 inches above tips) and increase duration to 16 hours. For already-leggy tomatoes, burying the stem at transplant time corrects the problem. For other crops, trim tall seedlings back by one-third to encourage bushier growth.

Q: When is the right time to start peppers in February?

A: For Zones 5–6, start peppers February 1–15 (10 weeks before April 30–May 15 last frost). For Zone 7, February 1–7 (10 weeks before April 15 frost). For Zone 8, January 15–February 1.

February Planting Quick Reference

February is arguably the most important gardening month for gardeners in Zones 5–7. The decisions you make in February — which tomato varieties to start, when to sow onions, what to amend your beds with — shape the entire growing season. Start now, start strong, and spring will reward you with an abundant garden.